02
Feb
Q&A with Dr. Kirsch: Best Skincare Products for Men
Exfoliation can help prevent acne, improve skin texture, and enhance the effectiveness of other skincare products by allowing better penetration. While many people like physical exfoliants, I usually recommend the daily use of chemical ones.
Chemical exfoliants like alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) work by gently dissolving dead skin cells, offering a more uniform exfoliation. In addition, they tend to be less abrasive than physical exfoliants (like scrubs), reducing the risk of micro-tears in the skin. They also provide benefits such as hydration, improved skin texture, and even pigmentation. With either type of exfoliation, some skin types may require a period to adjust, with initial mild irritation or purging.
What are the key things you want to tell people building a routine for dry skin? (Mistakes to avoid, ingredients to prioritize, habits to halt…)
First, sunscreen, sunscreen sunscreen. Second, see the first point. It is also important to avoid over washing or using harsh cleansers that strip natural oils. Not exfoliating regularly (gently) can lead to a buildup of dry, flaky skin. I always recommend at least daily use of a moisturizer (ideally 2-3x daily). In terms of ingredients to prioritize, for your sunscreen, physical blockers work best (look for zinc oxide and titanium dioxide). For moisturizers, I recommend hyaluronic acid, glycerin, ceramides, and squalane for hydration and reinforcing the skin barrier.
What are the key things you want to tell people building a routine for oily skin?
Use a gentle cleanser to avoid over-stripping natural oils, and incorporate into your routine a light, non-comedogenic moisturizer. The chemical exfoliant salicylic acid can help with oil control and clogged pores, and niacinamide can regulate oil production as well. Avoid heavy, occlusive creams, and while it seems a little counterintuitive, don’t skip your moisturizer as it helps your skin to better regulate oil production (your skin will produce lots of oil to overcompensate for any dryness)
What are the key things you want to tell people building a routine for acne-prone skin?
I recommend regular cleansing and exfoliation (gently) to prevent the buildup of dirt, bacteria and dead skin cells. Benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid washes are especially effective against acne. Retinoids both prescription (tretinoin and tazarotene) and over-the-counter (adapalene, retinol) can help with cell turnover and prevent clogged pores. Always look for products described as non-comedogenic. Perhaps most importantly, avoid picking or popping pimples! If you simply must, be very gentle and make sure first to thoroughly cleanse your skin and anything that contacts it. You should also regularly clean things like phone screens and pillowcases to reduce the potential for bacterial transfer.
Which active ingredients need to be absorbed through serums and moisturizers, as opposed to cleansers? And which ingredients in cleansers are actually effective at their promised task? (Like AHAs, BHAs, etc)
Ingredients like retinoids, peptides, antioxidants (Vitamin C), and hyaluronic acid are more effective as leave-on products since they require time to penetrate the skin. In other words, they are not likely to be effective when formulated in cleansers. Effective cleanser ingredients include salicylic acid (BHA) and benzoyl peroxide (for acne-prone skin), as well glycolic acid (AHA, great exfoliating cleanser), sulfur (excellent for acne/rosacea/seborrheic dermatitis, and treating excess oil and inflammation) and tea tree oil (antimicrobial).
Vitamin C is such a confusing ingredient, in terms of knowing whether the product has been properly formulated and will actually be effective. What advice do you have for ensuring that the product they buy is actually going to work?
Look for L-ascorbic acid, the most potent form of Vitamin C. It should be used at a concentration between 10-20%. Keep in mind that Vitamin C is sensitive to light and air, so packaging should be opaque and air-tight. Check as well for formulations that include stabilizing ingredients like ferulic acid and Vitamin E as Vitamin C.
What about retinoids– what advice do you have for getting a prescription vs trying OTC options, and then incorporating either into one’s regimen smartly and effectively?
Prescription retinoids are generally stronger and more effective for severe acne or signs of aging; while OTC options can be good for those with sensitive skin or beginners. Regardless of whether you are using a prescription or OTC formulation, I recommend patients start by using it every other night or every third night to build tolerance. I also like to recommend moisturizing before and after application of the retinoid (“moisturizer sandwich technique”). From my experience, this helps a lot with tolerability and will not reduce efficacy.
In addition, the regular use of sunscreen is important, as retinoids can increase sun sensitivity. Be cautious as well about combining retinoids with other potent ingredients like AHA/BHA to avoid skin irritation. Patience is key as results can take weeks to months. There can also be a period of temporary worsening or purging at the start. Consistency, listening to your skin, and adjusting as needed are essential. Retinoids are not one-size-fits-all and individual response can significantly vary.
